How To Add Backing And Glass To A Frame

I make an effort to buy as little "new" as possible, and I acknowledge some things are hard to source used. But picture frames? They're a dime a dozen at secondhand stores, and the old wooden ones are far more interesting than their plastic-wrapped counterparts, anyhow.

The just caveat? Vintage frames are often missing protective drinking glass and hardware on the back for hanging. Merely it's easier than you think to get them wall ready:

Photography by Meredith Swinehart.

Above: I plant two of these vintage frames in my grandmother'south basement; I bought the third at an antiques store in Seattle. All three have been collecting grit under my bed for the last several years because none had drinking glass or a way to hang them.

A Note on Hardware Options

Above: Sawtooth hangers are the nearly common frame-hanging hardware available, then they're what almost people apply. They come in nail-costless and boom-in versions, and my advice is to stay away from both: "Blast-costless" sawtooth hangers are all merely impossible to install unless you're working with a very soft forest, and "boom-in" sawtooth hangers usually come with tiny pins made of a soft metal that volition bend at the first thrust into your frame. Instead, I recommend using sturdy, spiral-in hardware: spiral optics and D-band hangers.

Above L: Spiral eyes of diverse sizes–one at each side of a frame allows wire to be strung across the back. Higher up R: Pocket-size D-ring hangers. D rings allow a frame to hang flush confronting the wall.

Here's what I used to brand frames wall set.

Materials

• Vintage picture show frames.
• Artwork.
• Assorted Screw Eyes for apartment-backed frames; $ane.24 for a pack of 10 at Lowe'southward.
• Small D-Ring Hangers for beveled frames; $2.58 for a pack of four at Lowe's.
• Appropriately sized screws for your frame (oft the screws that come with D-ring hangers are too long). (I bought #8 ane/2-inch screws; $one.18 for a pack of 12 at Lowe's.)
• Window glass, custom cut to size. (A 10-past-12-inch piece of 2.five millimeter-thick window drinking glass is $2.32 at Lowe's.)
• A power drill with drill bits, or a smash and hammer for punching airplane pilot holes.
• A power drill with screwdriver bits, or a screwdriver.
• Cardboard.
• A direct edge (for cut cardboard).
• A craft knife (for cutting paper-thin).
• Glazier Points; $one.thirty for a 1-ounce box at Lowe's.
• A metallic putty knife or a flathead screwdriver.
• Picture Hanging Wire; $5.05 for 25 feet at Amazon.
• Wire cutters or heavy-duty scissors.
• Pliers (optional).

Instructions

Step 1: Decide whether you'll hang your frame vertically or horizontally, and install spiral eyes on the back of the frame appropriately. Install ane on each side on the top half of the frame. (If you'll be using hanging wire to hang your finished frame, the screws need non exist perfectly aligned with each other, merely endeavour to get them shut.) Here, I used the smallest screw eye on a frame made of fairly soft woods, and was able to twist it in with my hands.

I chose D-band hardware for the askew frame (the back is not flush against the wall–it meets at an angle), then that the ring lies apartment against the wall when hung. Before securing the ring in place, I noticed that the screws that came with my D-ring prepare were too long for my frame, and if inserted, would have gone through the other side; I replaced them with a pack of #8 1/2-inch screws.

The beveled frame was made of much harder wood than the spiral-heart frame; I used a drill to make small airplane pilot holes in the frame before driving the #8 screws into it.

Plastic frames are far harder to piece of work with than wood. With them I learned that the trick is to drill pilot holes showtime wherever you want to insert a screw or fixture. This helps guild hardware firmly into the plastic.

Step 2: Take glass cutting to the exact dimensions of each of your frames. If you lot've never had glass custom cut, it's easier and cheaper than yous might think. Many hardware stores will cut drinking glass for you every bit will Lowe's and The Home Depot–call in advance to be sure. Most will cut a few pieces for gratis and then charge a small fee for each cut later that.

I bought three ten-by-12-inch pieces of 2.5 millimeter-thick window drinking glass for $two.32 each at Lowe'due south, and the cuts were free. I carried the frames along me to make sure the drinking glass fit–it's smart to check; old frames often have wonky dimensions. When one slice of glass was slightly too large, my salesman at Lowe's patiently stuck with the task, trimming each border on an bending to brand the piece work.

Word of alert: This is industrial-grade glass that has been freshly cut. The edges aresharp–I myself had a few serious near misses when cleaning the glass for insertion into the frames, and I accept a shallow scratch on my palm every bit a reminder.Be carefulwhen handling the drinking glass.

Step 3: Detect the art yous want to frame. I have a folder of fine art prints my grandmother saved, some from museums and fine art books, others from calendars and ads.

Stride 4: If you're framing a impress, photograph, or anything on paper, add a piece of cardboard to make the artwork fit snugly in the frame. For mine, I tore apart an Amazon delivery box and cut rectangles using a arts and crafts knife confronting a straight edge. (Avoid using scissors; they'll work but volition make a mess of the cardboard.) If y'all want to be archival, consider using acrid-free cardboard.

Pace 5: Install glazier points to brand the artwork stay in the frame. Higher up L: Glazier points are small metallic arrows that will hold your artwork in place. To a higher place R: A metal putty knife is the best tool for securing the points in place.

Higher up L: Apply the putty pocketknife to push the tip of the glazier bespeak into the side of the frame. To a higher place R: A screwdriver is too useful for installing glazier points: utilise the screwdriver to push in each edge of the arrow, ane at a time.

Finish pushing once the point is secure enough to hold your artwork. I like to get out mine somewhat loose so they're easy to pull out with pliers when I desire to swap out the artwork.

Stride 7: Using wire cutters or heavy-duty scissors, cut a length of metal wire that is approximately 20 percent wider than the frame.

Pace 8: Pinch the wire effectually the screw center or D-band. Using pliers (to be precise) or your fingers (my arroyo), wrap the wire around itself a few times to secure the hold, and cut off the excess wire. Gravity will make the wire taut; don't exit besides much room for hanging or your wire volition show over the meridian of your frame.

The Finished Project

In a higher place: Some of my grandma's art prints volition finally run across the low-cal of twenty-four hour period. Two are Van Gogh prints and the third is by Maurice Utrillo.

Looking for more DIY projects? Consider a DIY Watercolor Japanese Lantern and  DIY Carmine Lacquer Table for Under $500; and, on Gardenista, DIY Hanging Planters.

How To Add Backing And Glass To A Frame,

Source: https://www.remodelista.com/posts/diy-how-to-make-vintage-picture-frames-wall-ready/

Posted by: grantbance1994.blogspot.com

Share this post